From Tel Aviv to Jersualem - A Journey Through Israel's Heart
- ankat87
- Sep 27, 2023
- 15 min read
Updated: Nov 26, 2023
Shalom, my fellow travel enthusiasts. If I would have to summarize my recent trip to Israel in one word, it would be "unforgettable."
My journey through Israel was nothing short of a revelation, a whirlwind of emotions, flavors, and historical marvels. Join me as I share my experiences through this beautiful yet complex and captivating country, a land where ancient history and modern vibrancy coexist in not always so perfect harmony. It left me both elated but also challenged.
I'm so excited to share my adventures, which had in this magical place, with you.
Israel is like a living history book. From the ancient alleys of Jerusalem to the Roman ruins of Caesarea, the country's historical treasures are mind-boggling. Every corner seems to have a story to tell, and if you are a culture and history enthusiast like me, you will find historical riches abound.
Visa, Israel Pass and Co.
Check visa requirements for your citizenship before your trip. Traveling to Israel can be a little tricky. I wrote a section about the border crossing toIsrael in my blog post about Jordan, but I'm going to repeat it here again.
As a EU-citizen you can travel to Israel visa-free for up to 90 days. Which is absolutely amazing, considering that there is so much to explore.
When you get to Israel it's very likely that you won't get a stamp in your passport but on a small piece of paper. You can also ask for it. Israel is not on best terms with quite a few Arabic countries, the constant conflict with Palestina is also one of the reasons. This little, I would call it "gesture", prevents you from possible complications when traveling to Iran, Kuwait, Lebanon, Libya, Syria, and Yemen. They are known to ban travelers that have entered Israel. Best way to travel might be to visit those countries before going to Israel.
***Of course with the current situation (November 2023) and the ongoing conflict (and pretty much genocide of Palestinians in Gaza, which really breaks my heart and I in no way support these actions), it's best advised to not travel to Israel at all at the moment, as well as all the other currently unsave to travel countries mentioned above, besides Kuwait.
I think I will make a blog post about the current situation in Gaza soon, as this really bothers me and hurts to the core.***
I highly recommend to get the Israel Pass, it's so convenient when you really wanna explore Israel and its National Parks and Nature Reserves as well as tourist attractions all over the country. Check the website to see all the perks it has to offer. It really was worth it to me. I often got free entry or a massive discount as well as benefits when traveling with public transportation.
I got mine in the Abraham Hostel in Tel Aviv, but there are multiple other locations listed on the website.
They offer 3 differnt options, I took the ALL INCLUSIVE Pass for 150 NIS which is around 37€.
The people I met in Israel were some of the warmest and most hospitable I've ever came across and I'm sure you'll feel the same way. From sharing meals in their homes to engaging in heartfelt conversations in the bustling streets, I felt welcomed and embraced by the Israeli spirit. I had some doubts that they might react with rejection because I'm German. Going to a predominantly Jewish country, the German guilt in me kicked in (working on it). Because well, we all know German history, don't we? But the complete opposite was the case, and my doubts were gone within the blink of an eye. After all they are not resentful, at least not with my generation as we have nothing to do with the past.
Israel's complex political and security situation can be a little stressful for travelers. While I felt safe during my stay, there were moments when I couldn't help but feel the tension of the ongoing conflicts in the region. It's a continuous conversation, no matter where you go. Israelis are not happy with the situation and they are vocal about it.
It's absolutely normal to see young soldiers in their olive colored uniforms walking through the city with their machine gun after duty, even on their way home you can see them on the train station or else carrying their weapon, ready at all times. Didn't make me feel safe, to be honest, but I grew up completely different and people living here are used to it.
My Tel Aviv host told me that military service is mandatory for every young Israeli over the age of 18. Women have to serve a minimum of 2 years and men a minimum of 3 years. There are exemptions of course, especially for Arab citizens, and ultraorthodox Jews also don't do military service. It's common to see many young Israeli soldiers on their way home or to the army base.
Shortly after I left missiles where shot towards Tel-Aviv. The Iron Dome protects the country from such attacks and it seems like locals just shrug it off like it is nothing, but as a visitor this can be pretty frightening when the sirens go off and you see the missiles explode in the sky. I wasn't there but other travelers I met on my journey who where still in Israel reported me about it and sent video footage.
Now, to the best part...the foooooood! 🤤 I was delighted by the diverse and delicious food scene, feasting on falafel, hummus, shawarma, and fresh pita bread at every turn. Whether it was a bustling market or a cozy café, the flavors of Israeli cuisine were a constant highlight. It's somewhat a perfect mixture of Arabic and Mediterranean deliciousness.
But they also have their very own dishes which reminded me of some food from Central and East Europe. I created a list of the best restaurants I encountered which of course I'm going to share with you.
(1.Shawarma Sandwich/2.Falafel & Hummus)
Hummus Heaven: Start your journey with some authentic hummus at "Abu Hassan" in Jaffa. It's a local favorite and totally wallet-friendly. Grab some warm pita, and you'll be in hummus heaven!
Falafel Frenzy: In Jerusalem, make a beeline to the legendary "Falafel Uzi". Crunchy falafels, fresh salads, and their secret sauce will leave you craving for more. Plus, it's easy on your budget!
Shawarma Sensation: Head to "HaKosem" in Tel Aviv for their lip-smacking shawarma. The tender meat, combined with fresh veggies and tahini, is pure perfection. Trust me, you won't want to share!
Sabich Savoring: In Tel Aviv's Shuk HaCarmel, try the "Sabich Tchernichovsky" for an explosion of flavors in your mouth. Roasted eggplant, hard-boiled eggs, and tangy mango sauce wrapped in pita – simply divine!
Sweet Bites: For dessert lovers, "HaMalabiya" serves heavenly malabi – a creamy rosewater pudding topped with crunchy nuts. A delightful treat that won't break the bank.
(1.Shakshouka/2.Malabi)
Now that we got that covered, let's take a closer look at Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, the major cities, and pretty much the reason why you shouldn't miss out on visiting Israel.
I travelled from Amman (Jordan) by bus to Israel. With a stop and passport check at the "King Hussein Bridge border crossing", I jumped in a shared shuttle bus to Jerusalem, where I then took the train to Tel-Aviv. And that's where I'm going to start. 😊
TEL AVIV
Welcome to Tel Aviv, one of my favorite destinations so far - where tradition meets trendsetting, and every corner has a story to tell. If you like to have a beach vacation and a city getaway all rolled into one, Tel Aviv is a great choice.
Stating the obvious – Tel Aviv doesn't just get sunshine; it practically lives on it! Seriously, if sunshine were currency, Tel Aviv would be the richest city in the world. With over 300 sunny days a year, it's pretty much impossible not to have a perpetual smile on your face. In my 3 weeks there I had like 2 rainy days, I blame it on April. 😁 It didn't bother me much. A little rain every now and then feels nice, especially when the weather is warm.
Starting with the Sunrise on the Beach...I'm a firm believer that the best way to start your day is with a walk in the golden hues of sunrise by the beach. If you stay relatively close to the beach like I did then you shouldn't miss out on it. Gordon Beach is great for early birds, offering serene moments before the city comes to life. Grab your yoga mat or just a beach towel and soak in the beauty before it get's busy. Only 5 min walk from there on Ben Yehuda Street you find cafés for a breakfast, like "CafeXoho" or lunch at "Shakshukia", which were suggested to me by locals and I loved them.
Fueling Up at a Hipster Cafe and explore Street Art in Florentin - Tel Aviv's cafe culture is something to behold. Head over to Florentin, the city's artistic hub, and you'll find plenty of quirky cafes serving artisanal coffee and avocado toast. It's where local creatives congregate, and the vibe is always inspiring. Reminded me a lot of American Beach City Culture, like in L.A. or Miami, at the same time you have a lot of edgy areas that look like they are falling apart. But it seems like they are restoring some places. While you're in Florentin, take a street art tour and be prepared to be blown away by the artistic talents that graces the city's walls. Every mural has a story, and I find the vibrant colors are a reflection of Tel Aviv's spirit.
Culinary Adventure at the Carmel Market...
You already know I'm a foodie, so let's talk food again! 😊 The "Carmel Market" is a feast for the senses. From shawarma to sabich, the market offers a tantalizing array of flavors. You can try 'Malabi' for dessert here. For something trendier, check out one of the many gourmet food markets that have popped up around town. The Carmel Market is Tel Aviv's biggest open air market, if you don't come there for the food then you can get literally EVERYTHING else. I mean it. From groceries, fruits & veggies, cheese & meat delicacies, to home goods & clothes...just everything.
Biking on the Tel Aviv Boardwalk - Tel Aviv is super bike-friendly 🚴♀️ 🚴, and you can rent one easily. I took a ride along the Tel Aviv boardwalk that stretches alongside the beach. It's a great way to soak in the sea breeze and see the city from a different perspective. So if you feel a bit adventurous or just need to burn off some extra calories from all that delicious food🤰.
Tel Aviv is a cycling paradise. With dedicated bike lanes and a laid-back biking culture, it's a fantastic to explore the city. Plus, you'll feel like a local pedaling through the bustling streets. The eco-friendly bike system is similar to the city bike rentals in metropoles all over the globe with bike share stations all over the city.
Check out TeloFun, it comes with an app for easy access.
Another plus is that you avoid annoying traffic jams with public transportation having significant delays. If you're in a hurry, this could get quite stressful.
I personally like walking or taking the bus or tram every now and then, but the bike has been a great alternative and I did something for my fitness at the same time 😁
Public Transportation in Israel is well-developed, making it relatively easy to get around the country. I made you a list of some common options of public transportation, their routes, and approximate prices as of my last knowledge update in April 2023. Please note that prices and routes may have changed since then, so it's a good idea to check the latest information on the official websites or at transportation stations.
Buses are the primary option of public transportation, serving cities, towns, and even remote areas. Within cities, bus fares typically range from 5,90 to 7,90 NIS (New Israeli Shekels), around 1,50€-2€ per ride, depending on the city. Inter-city bus fares vary depending on the distance traveled. For example, for a one-way ticket from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem I paid around 20 NIS/5 €.
Trains - Israel Railways operates a train network connecting major cities and towns. Fares for train journeys depend on the distance traveled. For example, a one-way ticket from Tel Aviv to Haifa cost me around 40 NIS/10 €. You can check the Israel Railways website for schedules and prices. (The link only works in Israel 🤷♀️)
Light Rail - Jerusalem and Tel Aviv have light rail systems that provide convenient urban transportation. Fares for light rail rides in Jerusalem start at 6,90 NIS/1,70 €, while in Tel Aviv, they start at 5,90 NIS/1,45 €. Prices may vary based on the distance traveled.
Sheruts (Shared Taxis) are shared minivans that operate along set routes in cities and between cities. They usually operate during Shabbat (Friday afternoon-Saturday night, since every other public transportation option is out of order on those days. Keep this in mind when you book your flights, transportation to and away from the airport is very difficult on those days and taxis will be super expensive. Fares for sheruts vary by route but are generally competitive with bus fares.
Egged Bus Company is the largest bus company in Israel and operates a comprehensive network of inter-city and regional buses, as well as the Light Rail trains. You can check the Egged website or their local offices for route information and fares. (link also only works when in the country). The English version doesn't quite work that well, but Israelis are super friendly and will help you out if you ask nicely. 😉
Dan Bus Company is the main bus company in the Tel Aviv metropolitan area. Bus fares in Tel Aviv typically start at 5.90 NIS/1,45 € for a single ride within the city.
Rav-Kav Card - Consider purchasing a Rav-Kav card, it served me extremely well, it's a reusable smart card that can be loaded with credit for buses, sheruts and trains. It often provides discounts over single-ticket prices and you literally just tap it when entering the bus or train.
Discounts - Seniors, students, and people with disabilities may be eligible for discounted fares on public transportation. Be sure to inquire about eligibility and the application process, if you wanna take advantage of it.
Cultural Pit Stops...Tel Aviv is rich in culture. I visited the "Tel Aviv Museum of Art" for a dose of contemporary art and the "Beit Ha'Ir Museum" to learn something about Tel Aviv's history and spirit. But there are many more to explore. If I would understand Hebrew I probably would have taken in a play at the "Habima National Theater". And don't forget about the thriving independent music scene; check out local gigs and concerts happening around town.
Nightlife Extravaganza - As the sun sets, Tel Aviv's nightlife comes alive. The city offers an eclectic mix of bars and clubs to suit every taste. "Rothschild Boulevard" and the neighboring streets are great for bar-hopping, and you can dance till dawn in some of the world's best clubs, so they told me. 😅 Everyone who knows me could tell you that I'm not a party person, I did that in my 20's and have other priorities now butTel Avivians have a reputation for knowing how to party, and they take it very seriously! So serious that they got I got asked at least every second day or so to join them on a night out, on one point I just gave in. We made a rooftop bar tour to enjoy panoramic city views. Around 9pm we started our tour and went to "SuraMare" in the city center, for a drink and some pizza, and then went to "The Prince", an edgy rooftop bar close to Carmel Market, which reminded me of some bars in Berlin Kreuzberg. They closed somewhat early around 12am we got asked for the last round. But since we were far from being tired we went towards the beach. We wanted to stop by "Paseo" but it was a bit far away South and they were about to close, so we turned back around went to "Mondo 2000" instead. They had live music and delicious cocktails. I felt a bit like I took a trip back in time to the late 80's early 90's area. Totally my vibe. 💃
If you feel like going to underground clubs with heart-thumping beats, or simply chilling with a cocktail by the beach, the nightlife seems to be an absolute blast. I definitely had an amazing time.
And yes, it's perfectly acceptable to dance the night away in your flip-flops. 🩴
Escape to Jaffa for History...
Just south of Tel Aviv lies the ancient port city of Jaffa. Wandering through its pretty and charming alleys, I visited the Jaffa Flea Market for vintage finds, and of course to savor a traditional meal at one of the local restaurants.
It's a step back in time within the modern city.
Trips Beyond Tel Aviv:
While Tel Aviv has so much to offer, I wanted to take tripe to nearby gems like the Dead Sea, Jerusalem, or even the picturesque town of Caesarea to delve into Israel's history and natural beauty. Well "nearby" might be the wrong word but Israel isn't that big, it doesn't take you longer that 1-3 hours to get to most of the important places. Perfect for a day trip from either Tel Aviv or Jerusalem.
To me Tel Aviv is like that friend who can seamlessly switch between party mode and zen mode. It's a city that embraces the best of both worlds – where city vibes and beach dreams collide in a delightful explosion of culture, cuisine, and sunshine. So, whether you're here for the hummus, the beach vibes, the nightlife, or all of the above, Tel Aviv will welcome you with open arms and a warm, sunny smile. It's one of those places where I wanna go again. So, "I'll be back." 🤖
JERUSALEM
From Tel Aviv I took the train to Jerusalem, the heart and capital of Israel, which was a somewhat short ride of 1,5 hours.
I wanna give you some insights of my week in the enchanting and ancient city of Jerusalem. It's a magical place, a city that defies time, seamlessly blending history with modernity. From exploring its vibrant streets and savoring its culinary delights, to uncovering the local gems that make this city truly unique.
Jerusalem is more than just a city; it's a living legend. Its cobblestone streets have witnessed the rise and fall of empires, and its towering walls have seen centuries of human drama.
Starting my first day exploring the "Old City". It feels like stepping into a time capsule, where every stone has a story to tell. Early mornings are the best time to explore its historic alleys, as they are less crowded with tourists. I took a walk along the ancient walls and soaking in the golden sunrise over the iconic "Dome of the Rock".
Every quarter of the Old City has a different vibe, architecture and religious background.
What I noticed is that it's not just a place; it's an emotion. For people of various faiths, this city is the heart of their spiritual universe. Whether you're gazing at the "Western Wall" (see picture), or visiting the "Church of the Holy Sepulchre", you can experience the energy of all the major religions clashing.
Getting lost in Jerusalem's labyrinthine streets is a rite of passage.
I stumbled upon hidden courtyards, boutique shops, and charming cafes. Don't be surprised if you find yourself exchanging stories with friendly locals – they always seem eager to chat with visitors. I met a Rabbi, who was so different from everything I imagined a Rabbi to be, ultraorthodox Jews and secular Jews, Muslims, Christians, Atheists and theology students, other travelers and people living in a Kibbutz. It was explained to me as a community, where they share and exchange their skills and resources with each other. Some form of Socialism, it seems.
Foodies Paradies - Mahane Yehuda Market:
After exploring the Old City for 2 days, I decided to head to the trendy "Mahane Yehuda Market" around noon, where you can experience Jerusalem's culinary diversity and also get some groceries if you like. I stopped by one of the stalls to get a fill of fresh falafel, shakshouka and some fresh pomegranate juice, but you can also try one of the many international dishes on offer, of course.
There are plenty of street vendors where you can savor mouthwatering shawarma or indulge in a feast of Middle Eastern mezze, your taste buds will thank you.
The city in general boasts a thriving culinary scene with restaurants that fuse traditional Middle Eastern flavors with a modern twist. If you're not vegan or vegetarian, make sure to try dishes like lamb maqluba or Jerusalem mixed grill.
Jerusalem's art scene is thriving - I'm not the most artsy person but I gotta say it's so colorful and interesting, that I decided to visit the "Mamilla" Arts Center to explore some contemporary Israeli art. My local host told me that the exhibitions here often reflect the city's unique blend of history and modernity, providing a fresh perspective on Jerusalem's rich culture.
I also visited a few museums, I love learning about history and culture of other countries, as well as science. If you like museums just like me, you gotta go to the "Museum of Natural History", it also has an interesting outdoor area to explore, as well as the "Israel Museum", which I personally liked the most. It's near the "Bible Lands Museum" and the "Shrine of Book". If you travel with your kids or just wanna satisfy your curious inner kid, the "Bloomfield Science Museum" provides interactive exhibits, workshops and performances. It's also not too far away from the other museums, but I doubt that you will manage to go all of them in one day...unless you just rush through them. I personally take 3-4 hours for just one, if its small maybe 2 hours, but I really take my time.
Since I'm German, I kind of felt like I should stroll through the charming streets of the German Colony (Emek Refa'im). This neighborhood is filled with boutique shops, offering everything from handmade jewelry to vintage fashion. It's a great place to find unique souvenirs and support local artisans.
Jerusalem isn't just ancient stone, museums and bustling markets - It's also a place of natural beauty. The serene gardens of the Mount of Olives offer respite from the city's hustle and bustle. And the panoramic views from there or the Tayelet Haas Promenade are like a postcard come to life. A little windy at the top, but so worth the view.
It definitely provides a unique perspective on the city's historic skyline. Don't forget your camera!
I gotta say Jerusalem may not be known for its nightlife like Tel Aviv, but it has its own charm. After dark the area between Mahane Yehuda Market and the New Gate transforms into a hub of bars and live music venues. It's a great place to mingle with locals and tourists alike. I went out a couple times for a glass of wine with locals and travelers alike, to exchange stories and just have a good time.
Jerusalem is a perfect base for exploring the surrounding region. I took day trips to the tranquil Ein Gedi Nature Reserve by the Dead Sea, the ancient fortress of Masada, and Bethlehem, which is just a short drive away. Some people from the Palestinian territory told me to visit Ramallah as well, but I didn't make it. Maybe next time.
So, whether you're tracing the steps of history, seeking spiritual enlightenment, or simply indulging in the joys of travel and discovery, Jerusalem welcomes you with open arms. It's a city that leaves you with a heart full of wonder and stories to share. I hope you are going to have an amazing time in this magical city.
(selfie on Mount of Olives with around 1000 year old olive trees)
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